|One cannot climb in isolation...|
|Nice guns Rafa, shame about your wrists...|
A bit more digging and I discovered some tests with potential. A bloke by the name of Matt Redshaw posted a presentation he had made that discusses assessment with a view to returning to play (thank you Matt)(3). Again, it is a shoulder heavy piece, but I couldn't help wondering if some of the tests could be used to look at whole arm performance. The two with the most promise are very similar in nature.
The single arm seated shot put, and the seated medicine ball throw both measure the ability to push a weighted ball through the air. Distance is measured, the results are compared to norms and, in the case of the shot put, to the non-involved arm with an expectation of 90% symmetry. The test requires an extended wrist and hand that flexes as the arm extends in order to propel the weighted ball. Simple, sort of functional, providing immediate and relevant feedback to the patient and therapist (4).
|Fibonacci in the hand|
Whilst the ratio has been disproven with regard to bone length in the hand (5), it still seems relevant when applied to hand movement. Here, it describes how during finger flexion, the motion paths of the digits form an equiangular spiral. Ben's argument is that this predictable & balanced progression of angles, whilst applicable to full grasp, is disrupted during specific climbing holds like the crimp. This then exaggerates the forces, disrupts the relationship between muscle groups, and leads to overload and failure.
|Not true. Just keep doing this. Stay safe & well.|
Look after those fingers,
- Targett, S. Periodic medical assessment of athletes. In Brukner & Khan, Clinical Sports Medicine Ch 46. 5th Ed. 2017. McGraw-Hill.
- Abrams,G. Epidemiology of musculoskeletal injury in the tennis player BrJSpMed 2012
- Redshaw, M. https://www.manchester.edu/docs/default-source/fort-wayne-docs/neisms/2017docs/matt-redshaw.pdf?sfvrsn=2
- Riemann, B.L., A bilateral comparison of the underlying mechanics contributing to the seated single-arm shot-put functional performance test. Journal of Athletic Training 2018;53(10):976–98
- Park, A.E.,The fibonacci sequence: Relationship to the human hand JHand Surgery, 2003 https://doi.org/10.1053/jhsu.2003.50000